I went back and tweaked the compass gear design one more time – I decided to use a gear that has more teeth.
I also gave the pattern a boarder.
Next, I traced the pattern onto the leather. I just went over the trace with a ball point pen this time, and it worked pretty well.
Next I carved the pattern into the leather with the swivel knife.
Then beveling and using the background tool on the inside of the gear.
I used a new, smaller beveler on the gear teeth. I like the lined pattern that it makes. Of course, when I background the outside of the gear, those lines will go away. I’ll have to find a project that will let me show that detail at some point.
Next, I used a “geometric stamp” on the left and right flaps of this piece of leather.
The imprint left by the tool is actually a small X shape. But when used in succession as I did here, the strikes form a square (a geometric shape – hence the name).
Then it was time for the last bit of tooling – the background between the boarder and the central pattern.
Happily, I used a bigger background tool for this larger space, or it would have taken a REALLY long time. I also used the spoon shaped end of the modeling tool that came with my kit to round the edges of the boarder and compass arms.
Next step: fun with leather dye.
On the background, I used a dark brown. I used the resist technique and a light brown dye on the compass points. The gear and the rest are dyed “saddle tan.” And then I applied the finisher to seal in the stain. I learned a couple of really interesting things this time out:
- Using the background tool makes the leather quite porous. Which, you know, I should have expected from a tool which effectively pokes a bunch of holes into a surface. Thus, it took a lot of dye to get a good dark color, and it took a REALLY long time to dry.
- The saddle tan dye doesn’t work the same way as my water based dyes. I stained part of our living room table with an inadvertent spill. I also stained part of the kitchen sink when I was cleaning everything up.
- The finisher darkens up the dye just a bit.
Super washed out background!
I used some contact cement on the flaps, and then stitched the whole thing together. I learned that you do leather stitching with two needles. You center the thread at the start, and then work from both ends – like lacing up a pair of shoes.
And here is the finished product:
One steampunk flask, perfect for costumed occasions, camping, and parties of all sorts!
Now, for a test drive…
A perfect pair!
Thus ends my first completed leather project! I’m quite pleased with the outcome. I figure I’ll use it maybe twice a year, but it was a good sized project to go through all of the steps of leathercrafting. If you want to see the pictures with more detail, look through the album.
[...] The last step in the tooling phase was to use the spoon end of my modeling tool to round out the edges of the belt border. This the same technique I used on the border of my flask. [...]